De-Liver Me Tour ~ A Little Magic ~ June 15, 2015

We just returned from a couple of weeks of free range exploration in Northern California and Oregon, a well deserved time out before we head to UCSF tomorrow for my 7th TACE treatment. Journals and photos to come in the next couple of weeks. For now I'm taking you on a little side trip.

On the way home, June 9th, we headed south from Bandon to McKinleyville to spend the night with friends Tom and Linda. One of the prettiest sections of the journey on Highway 101 is from Crescent City to Eureka through the redwoods. As we started down the ridge towards Eureka we spotted a juvenile Black Bear at the treeline. In the many decades we've traveled this road this was our first sighting. This had to be some sort of sign. When we got home I looked up Bear Medicine. Clear as a bell. 

California Black Bear

https://www.etsy.com/shop/JanetsCollectibles

When you invoke the power of the bear totem, reflect on the qualities of inner strength, fearlessness, and confidence in yourself and how you can project them in your world. Since the bear is often associated with shamans in many traditions, this spirit animal can symbolize healing abilities and stepping into the role of the healer. Standing against adversity; taking action and leadership.The essence of Bear teaches us how to dream what is desired into physical reality. 

Post Script: The doctor doing my procedure tomorrow called this morning to introduce himself and remind me when to be there, to fast after midnight, and that I would, as before, be there overnight. I told him I had a very important question and he "sure anything". What I wanted to know was if the televisions in the recovery section (at each bedside with headphones) got the local station that will be televising the NBA finals (I am not normally a basketball fan, but we all have the fever this time around). He said "I think so, but as a back up plan bring your iPad. They have WiFi and you can probably stream the game". How's that for patient support and customer service? Off to San Francisco at o'dark thirty. 

Into the Volcanic Zone ~ June 24, 2014

It's definitely about the journey and not the destination. There are stunning views and history at every bend in the road. After breakfast we pick up Hwy 97 south. It's partly cloudy and a lot cooler than it could have been out here in the Sage Brush Sea. To our right are some of the snow capped mountains of the Cascades: Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, Sisters, and Broken Top.

We crossed over a deep gorge you can't see until you're in the middle of the bridge. Simply had to turn back and take a closer look. We find three stunning bridges arching over a 300 foot gorge and the Crooked River. There is a beautiful park out here in the middle of nowhere with historical signage, miles of trails and a large picnic area. 

The railroad bridge was completed in 1911. The incentive for the crossing was to reach vast stands of timber to the north. It's 320 feet above the river and is the second highest railroad bridge in the US. 

High Bridge 

Photo Credit Michael Goff

The Crooked River High Bridge was completed in 1926. It was the old Hwy 97 bridge and now it's a footbridge within the park, providing a one of a kind observation platform. 

The Rex T. Barber Veteran's Memorial Bridge was completed in 2000 to replace the High Bridge which could no longer handle modern traffic. It's named for a local war hero who, in 1943, achieved World War II fame as the fighter pilot who shot down the airplane carrying Japanese Admiral Yamamoto, mastermind of the Pearl Harbor attack. 

As is our habit, we chat with other travelers. One told us if we haven't been to Smith Rock, it was a must stop. Since it was just down the road we turned left at Terrabonne and headed east to the park. It was as described and more. Volcanic activity expresses itself in a myriad of ways and this spot will take your breath away. There are trails for all skill levels. It's also a popular spot for climbers. Truly worth a stop and a walkabout. Bring a picnic. 

Smith Rock Park

One of the Smith Rock Park Trails

After our picnic at Smith Rock we head south again. Next stop is Lava Lands just south of Bend. It seems a desolate place at first, but when you slow down and take a second look there is a lot to discover. There is signage throughout the park to explain the history and dynamics of the area. 

 Local Denizen

Mountain Spray

 Lava Snow Balls

Lava Ness Monster

A full day to say the least. We found a great spot to stay in Klammath Falls, called it a day and curled up and read after dinner.  Off to California tomorrow.

The Back Road's Back Road ~ June 23, 2014

June 23, 2014 ~ No Interstates need apply today, we are headed for roads way less traveled. After breakfast we pick up Hwy 211 outside Mollala. Near the junction of Hwy 213, along Macksburg Road, Rod points out a row of trees, on the left in this photo. They were planted by his Pop in 1960 at the Publisher's Lumber Mill. 

Must be a poem about logging trucks and horse trailers, seem to be the prevalent vehicles out here. We continue on Hwy 211 to Estacada to pick up Hwy 224 to the south east along the Clackamas River. Incredible views around every turn. 

Hwy 224

Lazy Bend - Clackamas River

Clackamas River

Stopped at Indian Henry near one of the bridges for a picnic above the river. Next turn is onto Hwy 57, then Hwy 58 towards Mt. Hood. This is the back road to the back road. We see no cars for 20 plus miles. 

 Mystery Flower

Rhodies in late June

 Mt Hood

Changed our minds about going to Mt. Hood and headed south on Hwy 26. In 50 miles the landscape transitioned from forests with greenery down to pavement edge to high desert, buttes, rim rock, and sage brush. 

Mt. Jefferson

Mt Jefferson an hour further south

The temperature went from a pleasant 75 to 90 plus degrees as we descended out of mountains. Time to get out of the heat. The Inn at Cross Keys Station had been recommended by someone we met in Warm Springs earlier in the day so we decided to stop there for an overnight. Turned out to be a nice place to stay and close to town for dining.

We'll pick up Hwy 97 tomorrow and start the journey towards home. This has been a grand adventure so far and we still have some gorgeous country to explore. 

Family Beckons ~ June 20-22, 2014

June 20th ~ After a sumptuous breakfast we head south from Hillsboro on Hwy 219 towards Newberg. Beautiful drive down to civilization: ranches, meadows, forests, no end to the views and landscape. 

Hotels are full, so we try our luck at the "Four star" Best Western in Wilsonville for our 3 night stay. No ocean here boss, the freeway was our sleep mode, white noise. Parking is under trees that drip sap, pillows are hockey pucks, shower runs hot and cold and their idea of a complementary breakfast: waffles, biscuits and gravy. It's closer to a "two star" but will suffice since w'e'll just be sleeping there. 

Head out to Dickey Prairie for dinner at the house of a friend of Rod's sister, Deb. It's an old 2 story home at the confluence of two forks of the Mollala River. It was probably a family compound at one time, many rooms and passages. It's absolutely magical, serene and quiet but for birdsong and the river. 

 House from the river

From the deck

One of the resident cats

Dinner was sublime: BBQ'd chicken and trout fingers, salad, corn, garlic cheese french bread and dessert. Rod's little brother Roy stopped by for a visit and then we headed back to the hotel at sunset.

June 21st ~ Summer starts today, it's gorgeous and about 74. Rod's niece Dawn, who lives in Canby, arranged for a friend of hers to give me a massage at 10am. We have no promises to keep until late afternoon so we decide to hit some garage sales around Canby. Had a ball and scored some amazing treasures: yoga mat and bag, 10 nearly new T-shirts for Rod, 2 hooded sweatshirts, and a mouse sander kit, all for less than $20. 

Took the afternoon and explored back roads between Mulino and Oregon City, Rod's old stomping grounds. This is Willamette Falls, he used to work at the pulp mill.

Met Dawn and her family at a local brew pub for dinner. We'll be heading over to their place tomorrow afternoon for a family reunion/BBQ. 

The charm of these small Oregon towns is that the trains still run through town several times a day: the sight, the sounds, the whistle always enthrall me, so much so I didn't pull out my iPhone and make a movie. What a knucklehead.  

June 22nd ~ We walked to breakfast at about 1/2 mile down the road from the hotel. Find out about a hunter jumper horse show down Wilsonville Road and head down there to watch for a couple of hours. 

Out to Dawn and Andrew's place in Canby for family BBQ with Rod's siblings, nieces and nephews: lot of fun and noisy as always. I'm any only child so large family gatherings aren't part of my DNA. I've always called the Helvey Clan the Loud Family and nothing has changed. Volume at 11 on a scale of 10, everyone talking at once, all remembering the stories of childhood differently. Home entertainment at it's finest. The food was amazing and laughter plentiful.

 Dawn and son Tristan

 Rod and nephew Mike

The crew: Margene, Roy, Deb and Rod

Wonder where I was at that moment?

Early evening it's back to the hotel to pack up and relax: visiting takes a lot of energy for a couple of hilltop curmudgeons. Tomorrow we're back in making it up as we go mode. East is the general direction.

Norther We Go ~ June 16th-17th, 2014

June 16th ~ Sunrise at the Adobe Resort on departure day. After breakfast our first stop is the Tanger Outlet Mall in Lincoln City. Promised Rod a couple of pairs of new shoes if he waited until we got to sales tax free Oregon. Just wandering around the mall we logged a mile, who knew window shopping had benefits. After lunch we head north.

The journey to Seaside is a poet's dream: Beachside and countryside, farms and ranches, oysters to world class cheese, tall forests, old barns, small towns, aging storefronts, and narrow roads.  

We roll in about 4 pm and settle in at the Best Western Ocean View for a couple of days: open windows let in the ocean's vibrations. Rod's nephew Emmett is in the National Guard stationed in Astoria. It's been a couple of years since we last crossed paths so we were delighted he could join us for dinner and a stroll along the Promenade.

I love the way Seaside is designed. Almost all of the town streets end at the Promenade, a 2.6 mile walkway running parallel to the beach. You can explore hotels, shops, restaurants and other points of interest without needing a car and many street corners have these gorgeous small gardens. 

Does anyone know what this is?

View from our 3rd floor window

My favorite house on the Promenade

June 17th ~ Today we're off to explore the Columbia River Maritime Museum, Astoria and Fort Stevens. First stop is the Museum for fascinating look at the history of the area. The website is http://www.crmm.org

Astoria is at the mouth of the mighty Columbia River. Where the forces of the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean meet is one of the most dangerous bar crossings on the planet. Unlike other major rivers, the current is focused like a fire hose without benefit of a river delta. Conditions can change from calm to life threatening within minutes. Waves can exceed 40 feet in height during the most severe winter storms. Since 1792 approximately 2,000 large ships have gone down in the ocean and the river. It's no wonder the Columbia is known as the Graveyard of the Pacific. 

The US Coast Guard Station Cape Disappointment, on the Washington side of the river, is renowned for operating in some of the roughest sea conditions in the world.  It is also home to the National Motor Lifeboat School, the only school for rough weather and surf rescue operations in the US. 

A stroll downtown to have lunch led to the discovery of the T. Paul's Urban Cafe. Rod voted their clam chowder as the best on the coast. 

"Where the Renaissance began in the year 2000"

Next stop the Columbia River South Jetty at Fort Stevens. Construction of the South Jetty, by the Corps of Engineers, started in 1886 and took decades to complete. It stretches across Jetty Lagoon, also called Trestle Bay, from Pt. Adams towards the Columbia Bar. Wooden trestles carried the trains used in the jetty construction. 

There is quite a view up and down the coast from this platform.

Walking south on the jetty from the tower 

you can still see remains of the train trestle.  

Trestle across Clatsop Spit toward beach

 Boulders were hauled by train to build the 6.5 mile jetty 

which is about 50' wide and 20' tall. 

Today has been quite an education but we're not done yet. Next stop is the shipwreck of the Peter Iredale at Fort Steven's Cannon Beach. The Peter Iredale was a four-masted steel bark built in Maryport, England in 1890, constructed of steel plates over iron frames, with steel masts, and a partial iron deck. She was an example of technology in transition before wooden sail powered vessels were replaced by all metal steamships.

On September 26, 1890 the 278' Peter Iredale left Salina Cruz, Mexico bound for Portland to pick up a cargo of wheat for the United Kingdom. It managed to safely reach the mouth of the Columbia the morning of October 25th. The captain, H. Lawrence, later recalled, as they waited for the bar pilot "a heavy southeast wind blew and a strong current prevailed. Before the vessel could be veered around, she was in the breakers and all efforts to keep her off were unavailing." She went aground at Clatsop Beach, hitting so hard three of her steel masts snapped from the impact. 

The life saving station at Pt. Adams sent a team to rescue the 27 crewmen and 2 stowaways. William Inman, one of the lifesavers who helped Captain Lawrence ashore, remembered the red-bearded captain stood stiffly at attention, saluted his ship and said "May God bless you and may your bones bleach in the sands". He then turned and addressed his men with a bottle of whiskey in his hand. "Boys" he said "have a drink." The weather, wind and current were blamed for the stranding and the captain and his crew were "in no wise to blame". 

October 25, 1906

June 17, 2014

What remains of one of the four masts. 

Another great day of exploration and education. We probably logged another 4 miles of walking and had worked up an appetite by the time dinner rolled around. I need to share an observation here. Restaurants in the state of Oregon are still in "lumberjack mode" when it comes to meal portions, almost always served on a platter, rarely a plate. We have been splitting breakfasts and dinners all along the way and find there is still too much. One of the perks of traveling in our motorhome was that we had a kitchen and could re-purpose leftovers into yet another meal. Something to ponder for the future.